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Baguette shape
A
rectangular-shaped diamond with rows of step-like facets. If
the baguette’s two long sides taper inward, it is called a
Tapered baguette.
Similar to the
channel setting, it is a circular band of diamonds that
holds each stone in by a long thin bar, shared between two
stones.
Barion cut
This has a traditional step-cut crown and a modified
brilliant-cut pavilion. A square barion cut diamond has 61
facets, excluding the culet.
Bearding or girdle fringes
The outermost portion of the diamond, called the girdle, can
develop small cracks that resemble whiskers during the
polishing process. The bearding can sometimes be removed, if
not too dramatic, with slight re-polishing, and if the
weight allows.
Bezel setting
With a bezel setting, a rim holds the stone and completely
surrounds the gem. Bezels can have straight edges, scalloped
edges, or can be molded into any shape to accommodate the
stone.
Blemishes
The term blemish is used when the diamond has scratches or
marks on the external area of the stone.
Brilliance
Liveliness, or sparkle in a stone when light is reflected
from the surface and from the total internal reflection of
light.
Brilliant-cut
Brilliant cuts are scientifically found to reflect the most
light from within the stone, and often are considered to
have the most brilliance of all cuts. A round brilliant-cut
diamond has 58 facets. Other brilliant cuts include the
heart, oval, marquise and pear shaped.
Carat
Refers to the measure of weight of a diamond. One carat is
equivalent to 200 milligrams. One carat can also be divided
into 100 “points.” A .75-carat diamond is the same as a
75-point or 3/4-carat diamond.
Certification (or Diamond Grading Reports)
There are many recognized gemological laboratories that can
grade your diamond for a fee.
Channel setting
Used most frequently for wedding and anniversary bands, a
channel setting will set the stones right next to each other
with no metal separating them.
Clarity
A diamond often has natural imperfections, commonly referred
to as "nature’s fingerprints." These inclusions contribute
to a diamond’s identifying characteristics. Inclusions are
found within the diamond. Inclusions can be white, black,
colorless, or even red or green. Most inclusions are
undetectable by the human eye, and can only be seen with 10X
magnification. Inclusions are ranked on a scale of
perfection called clarity. The grades of clarity vary from F
(Flawless) and (Internally Flawless) through to I
(Included). Clarity scale I can be seen by the human eye
without magnification. The position of these birthmarks can
affect the value of the diamond.
Cluster setting
This setting surrounds a larger center stone with several
smaller stones. It is designed to create a beautiful larger
ring from many smaller stones.
Color
Diamonds are graded on a color scale established by the
Gemological Institute of America (GIA). The scale ranges
from D (colorless) to Z. Fancy colors refer to diamonds with
hues like pink, blue, green, yellow and very rarely red.
Fancy colors are not included in this color scale and are
considered extremely rare.
Crown
This is the upper portion or the top of a diamond.
Culet
The bottom point of the diamond. It may be polished in some
stones. Please note that sometimes the cutter may choose to
make the culet a surface instead of a point.
Cushion cut
A mixed-cut diamond shaped like a square pillow.
Cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman
creates in transforming a rough diamond into a polished
diamond. Based on scientific formulas, a well-cut diamond
will internally reflect light from one mirror-like facet to
another and disperse and reflect it through the top of the
stone. This results in a display of brilliance and fire.
Diamonds that are cut too deep or too shallow lose or leak
light through the side or bottom, resulting in less
brilliance and ultimately value.
Cutting style
Cutting styles are different than diamond shapes. The
simplest and most common way to explain cutting style is to
categorize it into the following three basic types:
Step-cut, Brilliant-cut and Mixed-cut.
Deep cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman
creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished
diamond. When a diamond is cut too deep, it will lose or
leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less
brilliance and value.
Diamond
A diamond is the hardest known natural substance. It is
crystallized carbon. Diamonds are mined in their rough form
and then cut and polished to reveal their brilliance.
Diamond Grading Reports
There are many recognized gemological laboratories that can
grade your diamond for a fee.
Dispersion
When light enters a diamond it reflects off the facets and
the angles cut into the stone. This distribution of light is
known as dispersion, or the display of the spectral colors.
Emerald shape
A rectangular or square-shaped cut-cornered diamond.
Facets
These are tiny surfaces polished onto a rough diamond that
give a finished diamond its shape. The way light interacts
with these facets affects a diamond's brilliance and
sparkle.
Fancy shapes
Any diamond shape other than round – e.g. marquise, square,
emerald, oval, heart and pear.
Feather
A feather is a type of inclusion or flaw within a diamond.
It is described often as a small crack, fissure or gletz.
Finish
The word finish is used to describe the exterior of the
diamond. If a diamond is well polished, it has a very good
finish.
Fire
Often a term used instead of “dispersion,” it is the variety
and intensity of rainbow colors seen when light is reflected
from a diamond.
Flat-top setting
Like the Gypsy setting, this setting has a band that is one
continuous piece that gets thicker at the top. A flat-top
setting grows broader at the top so that a faceted stone can
be inserted into the ring at the broadest part. The stone is
held in place by metal chips attached at the stone’s girdle.
Fluorescence
When exposed to ultraviolet light, a diamond may exhibit a
more whitish, yellowish or bluish tint, which may imply that
the diamond has a property called fluorescence. The
untrained eye can rarely see the effects of fluorescence.
Diamond grading reports often state whether a diamond has
fluorescent properties. Fluorescence is not considered a
grading factor, only a characteristic of that particular
diamond.
Girdle
The girdle is the outermost edge of the diamond between the
crown and the pavilion.
Growth or grain lines
These can be considered internal flaws, and can often be
seen only by rotating the diamond very slowly. They can
appear and disappear almost instantaneously. They appear as
small lines or planes within the diamond.
Gypsy setting
The Gypsy setting is predominantly used for men’s jewelry.
The band is one continuous piece that gets thicker at the
top. The top is dome shaped and the stone is inserted in the
middle.
Illusion setting
This setting is more intricate than others in that it
surrounds the stone to make it appear larger. The metal that
surrounds the stone usually has an interesting design.
Inclusions
Often referred to as "nature’s fingerprints," these are
internal imperfections within most diamonds. They are what
makes a diamond so unique, as a fingerprint does for a
person. These birthmarks are measured on a scale of
perfection known as clarity. Some common names of inclusions
include cloud, crystal, pinpoint, and feather. The position
of inclusions can affect the clarity of a diamond and
therefore the value.
Marquise shape
A boat-shaped diamond that is long and thin with gently
curved sides that come to a point on either end. Marquise is
part of the brilliant-cut family.
Mixed-cut
This cut has both step-cut and brilliant-cut facets. Mixed
cuts combine the beauty of the emerald cut with the sparkle
of the brilliant cut.
Pavilion
Bottom portion of the stone, under the girdle, measuring to
the culet.
Pinpoint
A pinpoint is a small dot, which is an inclusion within a
diamond. A gathering of pinpoints is called a "cluster" or
"cloud." A cloud or cluster can appear as a hazy area in the
diamond.
Polish
Indicates the care taken by the cutter in shaping and
facetting the rough stone into a finished and polished
diamond.
Poor cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman
creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished
diamond. A poorly cut diamond can be either cut too deep or
too shallow. A deep or shallow cut diamond will lose or leak
light through the side or bottom. This results in less
brilliance and value.
Princess cut
A square or sometimes rectangular-shaped modified
brilliant-cut diamond.
Prong or claw setting
It consists of four or six claws that cradle the diamond.
Because this setting allows the maximum amount of light to
enter a stone from all angles, it sometimes can make a
diamond appear larger and more brilliant than its actual
weight. This setting can also hold larger diamonds more
securely.
Proportion
The proportions of a diamond are very important, so that the
maximum amount of light be reflected off and out of a stone.
Proportion is the relationship between the angles of the
facets of the crown and pavillion.
Radiant cut
A rectangular or square shaped diamond with step-cut and
scissor-cut on the crown and a brilliant-cut on the
pavilion.
Scintillation
When light reflects from a diamond, the sparkling flashes
that come from the facets of the gem are known as
scintillation.
Shallow cut
Cut refers to the angles and proportions a skilled craftsman
creates in transforming a rough diamond into a finished
diamond. When a diamond is cut too shallow, it will lose or
leak light through the side or bottom. This results in less
brilliance and value.
Shape
Shape refers to form or appearance of a diamond - i.e.
whether the diamond is round, triangular, square, marquise,
pear, oval or heart-shaped.
Step-cut
The step cut has rows of facets that resemble the steps of a
staircase. The emerald cut and the baguette are examples of
the step cut.
Symmetry
A diamond's symmetry is the arrangement of the facets and
finished angles, created by the diamond cutter. Excellent
symmetry of a well-cut and well-proportioned diamond can
have a great effect on the diamond's brilliance and fire.
Grading reports will often state the diamond's symmetry in
terms Excellent, Very good, Good, Fair, or Poor.
Table facet
This is the largest facet of a diamond. It is located on the
top of the diamond. The table facet is sometimes referred to
as the “face.”
Table spread
Term used to describe the width of the table facet, often
expressed as a percentage of the total width of the stone.
Tension setting
A tension-set diamond is held in place by the pressure of
the band’s metal, which is designed to “squeeze” the stone.
Tolkowsky, Marcel
In 1919 Marcel Tolkowsky calculated the best theoretical
compromise for the cut of a diamond to release the most
beauty. The width of the table facet was found to be 53% of
the total width of the stone, with a pavilion angle of 40
degrees and 45 degrees. The Tolkowsky cut provides the basis
for the modern American cut.
Trillion shape
Is a triangular-shaped diamond with 50 facets. Trillions are
commonly used as sidestones.
Well cut
Well cut proportions ensure the maximum compromise between
fire and brilliance. When light enters a properly cut
diamond, it is reflected from facet to facet, and then back
up through the top, exhibiting maximum brilliance, fire and
sparkle.
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